Cuba Solo Travel: Why a return visit is unlikely

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Havana Vieja Cuba

Street between Chacon and Cuarteles in Havana Vieja (Old Havana)

What’s Cuba like to visit on your own? Is Cuba safe for solo female travellers? Do Cubans really dislike the US? In my Cuba solo travel guide you’ll find travel tips and an unbiased review of a country which divides opinion.

Even my own thoughts on Cuba have provoked comment with accusations on social media of being anything from a Castro propagandist to a pro-American CIA bot. I can assure you that I’m none of the above as I have no political affiliations. What you’ll read here is based entirely on my own experience and the feedback from other travellers whom I met on my journey through Cuba.

ACCOMMODATION 

Hotels in Cuba can be expensive for solo independent travellers. The alternative is the Casa Particulare system where people rent rooms in their private houses and is a godsend for those undertaking solo travel in Cuba. Airbnb is now operating in Cuba and bears a resemblance to the Casa Particulare system.

Casa Particulares in Havana with central locations which come recommended are Elsa & Julio Roque’s Hostal Peregrino group of buildings. Evening meals were served at Hostal Peregrino Consulado, whilst I stayed in Hostal Peregrino El Encinar on my arrival and Hostal Peregrino Lealtad prior to departing Cuba. The evening meals cost extra but were an excellent opportunity to meet other independent travellers.

If you are looking for a good Casa Particulare in central Varadero, Casa Margarita Llacuna on Calle 33 is an ideal option. The breakfast is amazing.

No recommendations for the Trinidad and Santa Clara casas I stayed in. There was a lizard in the Trinidad shower while the Santa Clara equivalent almost electrocuted me.

CUBA SOLO TRAVEL ESSENTIALS 

Visa: Check with the Cuban Embassy in your own country regarding visa requirements. As an EU passport holder I required a Visitor Card which cost €35 and was included in the price of my flight.

Museo de la Revolucion Havana

Even with building works the Museo de la Revolucion building in Havana looks impressive

Language: Spanish is the official language of Cuba and I would highly recommend that independent travellers learn the basics of the language prior to visiting.

Currency: Cuba has two currencies: The Cuban Peso Nacional (CUP) used by the locals and the Cuban Convertible Peso (CUC) for tourists. At the moment, 1 CUC = 26.5 CUP. Some street vendors in Havana Vedado and Santa Clara gave me change in CUP but, by and large, businesses only want CUC from tourists as this is the Cuban currency weighted against other international currencies.

I had no problem exchanging my euros into CUC. My Irish credit and debit cards worked in Cuban ATMs but I cannot remember paying for anything using my cards. Cash is king in Cuba.

Best time to visit Cuba: December to March is peak season for tourists as the weather is both dry and pleasantly warm. I visited in April/May and found the weather to be pretty good on the south coast but a little cloudy on the north coast on occasion. The rainy season begins in June with hurricanes liable to hit in late summer.

Rancho Luna beach Cienfuegos Cuba

Rancho Luna beach near Cienfuegos

Dia Internacional de los Trabajadores parade Varadero

Meanwhile in Varadero in the north of Cuba…Even the rain couldn’t dampen the Dia Internacional de los Trabajadores parade

Food: True Cuban cuisine is healthy. Rice and beans in various forms always appeared at evening dinner with plentiful supplies of fresh salads and vegetables. Meat was always available whether as a stand-alone option or combined with other ingredients.

Breakfast always involved fruit, coffee, bread and eggs. Some casas included yogurt and cold meats.

Is Cuba safe for solo female travellers? I’ll be honest, I didn’t feel safe a lot of the time and neither did all of the female travellers I met there. Harassment of women is constant unless accompanied by a male. On a few occasions it felt threatening.

Cuba remains the only country I’ll never return to, firstly on personal safety grounds. For comparison, bear in mind that I’ve visited Israel and the Occupied Palestinian Territories, Iran, Russia hassle-free and I would have no hesitation in visiting these places again. Here is a list of countries that I found were excellent solo female travel destinations.

Independent male travellers I met were equally pestered by female prostitutes, with the exception of a German cyclist who told everyone he was Russian.

The second reason a return visit is unlikely is the constant scamming. Cuba is the most hyper-capitalist country I’ve ever travelled to. Scamming isn’t just a financial endeavour in Cuba. It’s also a form of mind games. When I saw through the scams my simple no gracias was met with harassment by male scammers. Competing scammers often joined forces in the harassment. On the contrary, female scammers did take no for an answer. In general, I found Cuban women to be helpful and respectful towards me.

I’m not the only blogger who has negative feedback on Cuba. Claudia Tavani, Flora Baker and Jenny of Jenny Far Away have had similar experiences.

More observances on Cuban culture can be found in Cuba: A dozen myths and truths.

TRANSPORT 

Travelling to Cuba: European independent travellers whom I met in Cuba arrived through Havana’s José Martí International airport via Canada with the exception of British travellers who flew direct from London.

Travelling around Cuba: The most challenging aspect of Cuba solo travel. Officially, driving in Cuba is on the right-hand side. Unofficially, driving is on any side. Signposting is sparse and GPS/SatNav is not permitted. For my sanity I chose to travel with Viazul, the bus company which only takes payment in CUC (i.e geared towards tourists). Unless booked by my casa, taxi drivers always reneged on the pre-agreed fare.

Cuba cars

1950s American cars lined up to take tourists around Havana

Cienfuegos Bus Station

Meanwhile, at Cienfuegos Bus Station…how the locals travel.

DESTINATIONS 

Cuba Independently Havana

Havana, with its crumbling centuries-old buildings and constant live-music soundtrack, is the most popular starting point in Cuba for independent travellers. Cuba Independently – Part 1: Havana has tips and advice for independent travellers visiting Havana.

Our man in Havana

Our woman in Havana: The Graham Greene Trail looks at the sites of Havana which featured in the best-known fictional take on the city, Our Man in Havana, the satirical espionage novel by British author and ex-MI6 agent Graham Greene.

Cuba Independently Cienfuegos Bay of Pigs

The southern coast of Cuba and its role in the Cuban revolution is examined in Cuba Independently – Part 2: Cienfuegos & Bay of Pigs.

Cuba Independently Trinidad

Advice about visiting the quaint UNESCO World Heritage town of Trinidad features in Cuba Independently – Part 3: Trinidad.

BACKGROUND INFORMATION 

Geography: Havana, the capital of Cuba, is located in the north-western side of the island, 90 miles from the nearest point of the US coast. The largest purpose-built holiday resort in Cuba is Varadero, approximately 90 miles east of Havana, and is served by its own airport.

Cuba mostly comprises of flats plains but has a few mountain ranges scattered around the island. Travelling from Cienfuegos to Trinidad I encountered the Escambray mountain range.

Cuba’s main island is surrounded by several thousand smaller islands. The Sabana-Camagüey archipelago to the north is composed of up to 2,500 islands and cays.

Cultural sensitivity/politics: Cubans are not lovers of US foreign policy so don’t try to persuade them otherwise. I visited during the Obama presidency and his drive to restore diplomatic relations was well received and an increase in US tourists eagerly anticipated. Apart from that, it was lips closed regarding current affairs. On the other hand, Cubans have a great admiration for US ingenuity, culture and people. Being able to broach these topics is the benefit of Cuba solo travel.

Dia Internacional de los Trabajadores parade at Varadero

“Down with the blockade”

History: Cuba was populated by indigenous tribes for several thousand years before the arrival of Christopher Columbus in 1492. Cuba remained under Spanish control until 1898 when it became a protectorate of the US.

Cuba gained independence in 1902 but the US continued to maintain an influential role on the island until 1959 when Fidel Castro took control, overthrowing the US-backed dictator Fulgencio Batista. Castro’s system of governance has been in place in Cuba since then, much to the chagrin of the US.

Cuba Solo Travel

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