Cuba Independently – Part 3: Trinidad

If you want to experience the physicality of rugby firsthand then I suggest you arrive in Trinidad by bus. The cackle, scrum and maul of casa owners waiting for the bus was quite extraordinary, if amusing. It was a hectic start to what was one of the most peaceful places I visited. But the word … Continue reading Cuba Independently – Part 3: Trinidad

Cuba Independently – Part 2: Cienfuegos & Bay of Pigs

After Havana, the next stop on the Cuban independent travel trail is the tobacco-producing area of Viñales or time-warped Trinidad. But I had read so much about the architecture of Cienfuegos that I was determined to make it my first stop after Havana. Yes, its architecture differed from the rest of Cuba reflecting its French … Continue reading Cuba Independently – Part 2: Cienfuegos & Bay of Pigs

Our woman in Havana: The Graham Greene Trail

“Hey there Irish lady. You wanna dance?” I was making my way through the music-filled ground floor of the Hotel Inglaterra in Havana when I turned to find the American journalist, whom I met on the Malecón earlier, with a fake Cuban accent mocking my dislike of the Cuban jintero custom of haranguing independent female … Continue reading Our woman in Havana: The Graham Greene Trail

Cuba Independently – Part 1: Havana

Ever since President Obama re-instated US diplomatic ties with Cuba in December 2014 the Caribbean island has become the en vogue place to visit. Whilst my previous Cuba post recommends travelling with a tour group my Cuba Independently series is for those who want to tackle the country on their own terms. Havana, the capital, … Continue reading Cuba Independently – Part 1: Havana

Cuba: A dozen myths and truths

Of all the countries I’ve visited Cuba is the one which differed the greatest from descriptions in guidebooks and online resources. Some descriptions were over-generous and others greatly under-rated the country. So here’s to dispelling some myths. Myth 1: Cubans are a repressed people who crave democracy. Truth: Not as far as I could see … Continue reading Cuba: A dozen myths and truths