Cuba Independently – Part 3: Trinidad

If you want to experience the physicality of rugby firsthand then I suggest you arrive in Trinidad by bus. The cackle, scrum and maul of casa owners waiting for the bus was quite extraordinary, if amusing. It was a hectic start to what was one of the most peaceful places I visited. But the word … Continue reading Cuba Independently – Part 3: Trinidad

Cuba Independently – Part 2: Cienfuegos & Bay of Pigs

After Havana, the next stop on the Cuban independent travel trail is the tobacco-producing area of Viñales or time-warped Trinidad. But I had read so much about the architecture of Cienfuegos that I was determined to make it my first stop after Havana. Yes, its architecture differed from the rest of Cuba reflecting its French … Continue reading Cuba Independently – Part 2: Cienfuegos & Bay of Pigs

Our woman in Havana: The Graham Greene Trail

“Hey there Irish lady. You wanna dance?” I was making my way through the music-filled ground floor of the Hotel Inglaterra in Havana when I turned to find the American journalist, whom I met on the Malecón earlier, with a fake Cuban accent mocking my dislike of the Cuban jintero custom of haranguing independent female … Continue reading Our woman in Havana: The Graham Greene Trail