jemaa el-fnaa Marrakech
Region and City Guides

Impressions of Marrakech

As the nearest of Morocco’s four imperial cities to Agadir, we relished experiencing the historical depth that Marrakech is renowned for. But Marrakech is not an easy city to love at first sight. Instead of another glowing love letter to the Red City, my impressions of Marrakech are ones of overwhelm, chaos, and moments that made us wonder why we went there at all.

First Impressions

After a few days in the relaxed atmosphere of Agadir, Central Marrakech hit like a wall. The taxi from the train station brought us as close as possible to Jemaa el-Fna, the main square where our stunning and exceptionally friendly traditional riad was located. Within seconds of the drop off, the city felt too loud, too close, too insistent. The famous red walls and iconic architecture awaited us, but so did the exhaust fumes, bike horns, throngs, bag grabbers, and the uncomfortable thought that we were in over our head.

View of Jemaa el-Fna from our riad

Scooters brushed past our elbows, at speed, in alleys barely wide enough for two people. We counted our blessings to escape injury-free as we saw some locals getting rammed. And every time we paused, someone was ready with a “shortcut” we never asked for. Getting lost stopped being charming the moment we realised that every wrong turn seemed to come with a price. As someone who loves meandering among stalls, of which there are many in Marrakech, I felt the city swallowed me up.

The Weight of the Chaos

The city felt relentless. Bargaining for anything – a coffee, a souvenir, even information – felt like an argument with the city. And this was a shame. Because Marrakech is a city of immense architectural beauty, culinary prowess, and retail diversity. Despite the chaos, it also felt safe from a crime perspective. For a few moments, I saw the version people rave about, just long enough to know it exists.

People versus vehicles in Marrakech

Impressions of Marrakech: Final Thoughts

Leaving Marrakech felt like exhaling after holding my breath for too long. At the bus station, there was a quiet relief in knowing that I no longer had to brace myself before each step outside. My asthmatic lungs felt equally relieved – the air pollution took its toll.

This is not a tale of falling in love with Marrakech; it is a story of surviving it, of accepting that some places are challenging and complicated. Do I regret visiting Marrakech? No, but a return visit is not on the cards.