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Nestled along the pristine shores of the Ionian Sea lies Himare, Albania, a beautiful beach resort that offered me the relaxation and general contentment that I seek on Europe’s beaches pretty much every year.
Himare is a captivating destination that has managed to retain a genuine Albanian charm while offering travellers good quality facilities. Slipping off the mountains into the Ionian Sea, Himare beckons intrepid adventurers who are looking for an idyllic region for their seaside escape.
Pronounced Himara and spelled Himarë, it’s a resort that is tricky to get to. Once you arrive there, you won’t want to leave.
Experiencing Himare is one of the many great reasons to visit Albania. So let’s get the lowdown first.
WHERE IS HIMARE?
Himare is located on the Southern Albanian coast between Vlore and Sarande.
WHAT IS THE LANDSCAPE IN HIMARE LIKE?
As you can see from the following video, Himare is surrounded on all sides by either mountains or sea. Given this hilly terrain, I’m guessing the town would be challenging for anyone with mobility issues. A pedestrian promenade runs along the western shoreline.
In fact, the terrain south of Vlore is mountainous. Bear this in mind if you are renting a car. In other words, expect to do lots of hill starts and driving on hairpin bends.
There are two ways of getting to Himare from Vlore by road:
The coastal SH8 road goes through the beautiful Llogara National Park and summits the Llogara Pass. I only recommend this route to experienced drivers and/or those with nerves of steel. Veterans of the Stelvio Pass and the Col de la Bonette should put the Llogara Pass on their bucket list. The SH8 continues on to Sarande.
The less stressful route to Himare from Vlore is via the road that goes through the Kote, Lepenice, and Kallarat areas. Fill up with fuel prior to taking this road as service stations are few. Find more travel tips in my Travel Tips for Albania post.
WHAT ACTIVITIES CAN YOU DO IN HIMARE?
Beach
Needless to say, in a beach resort everything revolves around the beach. There are several beaches in Himare: From west to east they are Spile, Sfageio, Maracit, Prinos, Potami. You can rent sunloungers and umbrellas in Maracit/Marachi, Prinos, and Potami.
There are bars and restaurants on these beaches or nearby, so a nice cold drink is never far away. The beach vibe is informal with families, couples, groups and solo travellers all mixing harmoniously.
Water activities
With warm sandy beaches at your disposal, swimming and snorkelling will be the main options. It’s possible to rent a kayak and Stand Up Paddle (SUP) board, with Himare’s bay being the perfect place for beginners. Rounding the headlands and travelling up and down the coast will be an absolute delight for experienced kayakers.
Rental agencies can be found along the sea promenade and along the SH8 road through the town.
Although all beaches were calm, they shelve in reasonably quickly so be mindful when bringing children into the water.
Hike to Livadhi Beach
If you need a break from the buzz of Himare and don’t have your own transport, hiking to nearby Livadhi comes recommended…if you have plenty of bug spray and a good pair of walking shoes.
Livadhi is a beach resort west of Himare but is not as busy, nor is the beach as crowded. Take the dirt track around Himare’s football stadium and head towards Mihalis apartments. Continue for 100-200 metres past the junction for Mihalis apartments where you will find a small overgrown path through the forest. Battle through this forest for approximately 20 minutes to reach Livadhi.
While the water is crystal clear and perfect for swimming, it shelves in much more quickly than Himare’s.
Coastal Boat Trip
Like neighbouring Montenegro, the Albanian Riviera’s challenging terrain/roads means that the best way to travel along the coast is by boat. The harbour near Spile beach is where you can buy your ticket and where boats depart from.
I didn’t have a good experience with Lido Boat Tours who told me that a ticket for one of their tours was €55 and there was availability on it. However, on the morning of the tour, they had no availability but could accommodate me on another company’s boat for €70! You have been warned.
Xhiro
The Italians have their passeggiata but the Albanians have Xhiro, and both are the same thing. Xhiro is the evening casual stroll in Albania where locals chat and people-watch before settling in for dinner. Himare’s shoreline promenade is perfect for Xhiro.
Eat, Drink, and be Merry
Albanian food is as varied and delicious as the other cuisines of southern Europe. Given Himare’s proximity to and historical links with Italy and Greece, many of the restaurants in Himare serve dishes from these countries along with local fare. I highly recommend Furre Buke bakery.
While there are plenty of bars and restaurants along the seaside promenade to watch the sunset from, the handful of rooftop bars dotted around the town keep the party going until the small hours. Follow the sound of the music.
Beach Bunker
Thousands of defence bunkers from Enver Hoxha’s paranoid communist era are dotted along Albania’s coastline. The one in Himare is located between Maracit and Prinos beaches, best reached from Maracit.
Submarine Bunker
This bunker is located along the coast near beautiful Llamani Beach, south of Himare. It was built during the Enver Hoxha era to house Soviet submarines. Although there is a walking track to it, it’s best reached by boat or kayak.
Chill Out
Sick of answering emails? Switch off the phone and go to Himare. Nobody will find you!
Himare is popular with Albanians and tourists from neighbouring Montenegro, Republic of North Macedonia and Kosovo. As Himare, and Albania in general, is off the beaten track for everyone else, it’s an excellent destination for escapism. It’s easy to blend anonymously into the crowds.
I was as happy as I was in ages, just sipping a cold drink while reading a good book between swims. For me, sun plus sea equals satisfaction but Himare had that an extra undefinable quality.
HIMARE PRACTICAL INFORMATION
Accommodation in Himare
Himare has a wide selection of accommodation options. Check out booking.com for great deals. If renting a car, getting accommodation with parking will be a bonus. Himare’s streets are narrow and hilly, and I was unable to find a public car park.
General facilities
Between Sarande and Vlore, Himare is probably the best serviced town. It has ATMs, supermarkets, filling stations, hairdressers, pharmacies, a library, a small hospital and a wide variety of shops.
HIMARE, ALBANIA: CONCLUSION
Himare was a great introduction to the Albanian Riviera. The town left me enchanted and yearning for more of Albania’s coast, which I intend to discover in due course. A return trip is the best endorsement of a destination. So see you soon, Albania.
Arrivals Hall 