The Wild Atlantic Way is the world’s longest coastal drive, stretching 2,750 km from Donegal to Cork incorporating all of the counties on Ireland’s Atlantic coast. Having travelled most of this route over the course of my life I can guarantee first time visitors that stunning scenery and a multitude of activities and sites await. I’m fortunate to be living near the official route in picturesque Kerry and using my local knowledge will feature the county’s numerous merits in upcoming blog posts. First up is the striking Slea Head Drive which I travelled last Easter weekend for the first time as driver.
Slea Head Drive, a combination of the R559 and R549 roads, starts and finishes in delightful Dingle, a town noted for its fine restaurants and craft shops. Regardless of entry route into Dingle, I would strongly advise travelling this drive in a clockwise direction for your own safety and sanity.
So off I headed, west from Dingle towards Ventry/Ceann Trá with one hand on the steering wheel and the other holding an ice cream. A couple of minutes later I arrived in Ventry where the blue-flag sandy beach is the star of the village.
Entry to Ventry
If you’re going to purchase an ice-cream in Ventry, I suggest you finish it before venturing further as the steering wheel will require both hands for the next few miles. Beauty and danger are often mutual partners and the mechanically challenging stretch of road to Slea Head/Ceann Sléibhe offers travellers one of the most beautiful views you will ever find. Even with two eyes and full concentration on the mechanics of the journey and the fact that I’ve travelled this road many times as a passenger my jaw still dropped with amazement. The below picture shows how perilously close the road veers to the edge of the cliff on this part of the journey.
View looking east towards Ventry and Dingle
I’ve a soft spot for placid animals and these two posers were perfectly poised for a photo shoot. Again the view is eastwards over Dingle Bay towards Ventry and Dingle. The shadow on the right of the picture is the Iveragh Peninsula, the southern part of the Wild Atlantic Way in Kerry. Beehive huts (Early Christian dwellings) and Dunbeg Fort are on this stretch of road.
Resting Horse and Daredevil Donkey
A large white stone crucifixion scene on the right hand side of the road marks Slea Head. I pulled my car into the small lay-by at this spectacular point to admire the appealing vista on offer. More animals awaited me, this time the winged variety. Below is a seagull with the Great Blasket Island/An Blascaod Mór and Inis Tuaisceart/Inishtooskert in the background.
Bet your place isn’t as nice as mine
Once rounding Slea Head, the road travels north towards Dún Chaoin/Dunquin where Coumeennoole Strand is now visible from the road. The headland which stretches west of this beach is Dunmore Head/An Dún Mór, the westernmost point of mainland Ireland. The next parish is Boston.
Approaching Dún Chaoin, a better view of Inis Tuaisceart is on offer and it’s easy to see why this island is known as The Sleeping Giant and An Fear Marbh (The Dead Man).
A fine stretch of road by Kerry standards led me to the viewing point near Clogher Head/Ceann Sratha. In the picture below, Clogher Strand/Trá An Chlochair is in the foreground, Ferriter’s Cove is further north with The Three Sisters/An Triúr Deirféar peaks at the top of the picture.
The perfect picnic
In another couple of miles I reached the village of BallyFerriter/Baile an Fheirtéaraigh, a contender for the most romantic place in Ireland. My next stop, Béal Bán beach, was frantic rather than romantic. My teenage car threw a tantrum and not even the efforts of four tourists pushing its muddy rear could get it to start. Like any teenager, it inexplicably complied a few minutes later. Here’s what my car wanted me to admire whilst on hold for breakdown cover.
Béal Bán beach looking east towards Murreagh
Béal Bán beach looking west towards The Three Sisters.
Before Murreagh/An Mhuiríoch one will see signs for Gallarus Oratory, an early Christian Church worth having a look at for its construction method. More beach awaits at Murreagh, this one perfect for a sunset stroll. The last urban centre, per say, on the Slea Head Drive is An Feothanach/Feohanagh with the cliffs of Ballydavid/Baile Dháithi west of the village. After An Feothanach one may be tempted to return to Dingle via the L5005 but you’d be missing out on Brandon Creek/Cuas an Bhodaigh, the departure point for St. Brendan’s pre-Columbus trip across the Atlantic. Sadly I didn’t stop at Brandon Creek for fear another mechanical malfunction could result in a re-enactment of St. Brendan’s voyage.
The R549 veers south at a right angle returning to Dingle with Mount Brandon, the highest mountain in Ireland outside of the McGillycuddy Reeks, on the east side of the journey. And it’s on this stretch of road you’ll find something that’s by and large absent on the rest of Slea Head Drive, that being trees. Upon return to Dingle, the Wild Atlantic Way heads east for the Iveragh Peninsula and north on another hair-raising road, the Conor Pass.
Set aside a day to travel the Slea Head Drive at a leisurely pace. This will allow time to sightsee and soak up the spectacular scenery, scenery which my camera cannot do justice to. For better quality photographs have a look at the pictures Joe Viesti took for Boris Weintraub’s National Geographic article on the Dingle Peninsula in 1986 where the area was described as being the most beautiful place on Earth (Vol. III, No. 2). And if you’re still in doubt, the Dingle Peninsula was voted one of the best places in the world to take a photograph by users of PhotoShelter, a portal for professional photographers worldwide (http://blog.photoshelter.com/2014/04/24-best-places-photograph-worldwide/). But why let cameras have all the fun. Why not see it with your own eyes.
© Hazel Joy 2014